Leo’s recruited seasoned taqueros from Mexico City’s storied spots like El Tizoncito, Charco de Las Ranas, El Huequito, and more to run its al pastor spit the truck expanded to eight locations across LA, garnering mentions on numerous best-of lists while Los Palomos mostly stayed under the radar. LA’s game-changing al pastor moment came about 10 years ago when Leo’s brought their expertise to Los Angeles. “There are enough taqueros in LA, so three years ago we decided to go where others hadn’t gone,” says Martinez. Taquero shaves al pastor from a trompo at Tacos Los Palomos Matthew Kang Martinez’s exceptional Mexico City-style al pastor brings a new level of quality to this part of western San Fernando Valley, keeping busy despite the many on-site dining restrictions that have been enacted by the state and county. Tacos get a finish of onions, cilantro, and salsa from an ample self-service bar. Here in Canoga Park, a taquero tops each taco with somersaulting chunks of pineapple sliced off the top of the spit. Martinez first opened a decade ago in South Central, naming his restaurants after the flock of doves that always gathered near his first stand. Fermin Martinez, another mixe taco vendor, has been serving some of the city’s best al pastor at his chainlet Tacos Los Palomos, cementing the notion that mixe people are a key element of LA’s street food scene. But mixe entrepreneurs dominate LA streets at night, with diners lining up for tacos de al pastor on street corners across the county. LA’s mixe restauranteurs aren’t often recognized alongside the many zapotecos in town - most media coverage revolves around just a few Oaxacan establishments. in general, are owned by zapotecos, serving things from the Valles Centrales region like moles, tlayudas, mezcal, and quesillo.
Most of the prominent Oaxacan restaurants in Los Angeles, and in the U.S.
These groups, including zapotecos and mixtecos, continue to educate Angelenos about Mexico’s most culinarily diverse state. Mixe are one of the many Indigenous peoples from Oaxaca who came to settle in Southern California, assembling what is colloquially called Oaxacalifornia. You might not know it, but Los Angeles’s most frequented trompos, like the ones at Tacos Leo (aka Leo’s Taco Truck) and Tacos Tamix, are helmed by people of the mixe Indigenous group.
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